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Pork backbone stewed with potato and ground perilla seed in a red broth. A pot for the table, or a bowl the morning after.
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감자탕 (gam·ja·tang) is pork backbone simmered in a spicy, savoury broth with potatoes, cabbage and 들깨 (deul·kkae), ground perilla seed, which thickens it. Visit Korea's dish page says some kitchens swap the cabbage for dried radish leaves or old kimchi, and that the meat comes off the bone soft, which is the fun of it.
The same page calls it a hangover stew, and that is how most people meet it: a single bowl, listed on menus as 해장국 (hae·jang·guk), the morning after. The shared pot is the evening version.
In Seoul, Visit Korea lists 성균관감자탕 at 37 Changgyeonggung-ro 29-gil in Jongno-gu, open 10:00 to midnight, with the pot and the hangover soup both on the menu.
Order the pot for the table or the bowl for yourself. Eat the meat off the bone with chopsticks and, when that fails, a hand; nobody minds.
One bone hangover soup, please.
Put the bones in here.
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